and randoms
David Charles Hahn (born October 30, 1976), also called the “Radioactive Boy Scout”, is an American man known for having attempted to build a homemade breeder nuclear reactor in 1994, at age 17.
I simply forgot about the camera when I’ve glued the fingerboard. A gap in the sequence… My apologies, I wasn’t really thinking too much about trying to document every step in the process. Like everybody else on the internets, I’ll say: “figure out a clamping position that won’t allow the sides (neck / fingerboard) to slide”. Umm.. that’s it.
First off: the fret wire is Made in Belarus. Just in case you wonder what they are doing over there. Second: I spent like a whole weekend afternoon for the first 3 frets: the fret marks where too thin and only scratching the surface, so I had to make them wider and deeper with another saw. And then to level the steel wire. Wiw.
On this project I found myself planning a lot for some steps while I did consider others as being more easy. Drilling the peg-holes should an easy one.
An indeed, it took about 10 minutes to actually drill those 4 holes …but soon I’ve realized that some aren’t …that straight, for one I couldn’t get a clean exit and for other a clean entry. Moreover, I’ve wrongly marked the spot (2-3mm) for another (G).
So far this project was fun: First, I’ve learned a lot along the way. And second, I’m proud of my mistakes: this is what makes a project unique :)
Next post will explain how the box gets attached to the neck. Or the other way around.
…just to catch up with the current state (those pictures where taken 3 months ago).
Marking fret placement over a white tape. Fret position was calculated with the stewmac fretcalc for 12 frets and a 350mm scale ukelele.
Work in progress with the japanese fret saw.
And done.
More updates to follow.
Somehow I’m unable to find a 7mm drilling bit for wood in our local hardware stores. Went to 4 different places and got various responses like:
Oh, and I need one to fit those wooden pegs.
must …build one.
Remember I had this bad idea to remove the saw marks with a chisel? And basically ended up with a big ugly crack (with a max. depth ~2mm)?
Okay, so I’m going to use a mixture of Titebond Hide Glue with some rosewood dust (yeah, I kept some) to fill it.
Then clamp for 30-45 minutes. Without the plastic thing around it will obviously glue to the workbench :)
24 hours later did some sanding (120/320 grit) to remove the excess.
Awesome, huh?
wisdom?
“Woodtreks” are video journeys for woodworkers, wood artists, and collectors of fine wood crafts, art, and furniture. Be inspired, learn how-to, and discover master artisans & their work.
Inspiring-ness: same level as Railscasts.
With so many types of specialized handsaws available, it’s hard to know which one to use for your project. Use this chart to help you choose the right tool for the job.
A frame saw can be used to resaw thick boards, or to rip wide boards. It is much more efficient than a hand saw in these applications due to its narrow kerf. The blade should be under high tension, and should emit a high-pitched “ping” when plucked.
Also, check out Resawing with a Frame Saw.
Short update on my cbu project since delivery arrived:
Rounded a little bit the corners where the head meets the neck (no pics yet).
Sand. And then, I had to sand more. And even now, I’m not 100% satisfied.
Another picture with some of the deliverables and an upper view of the neck (as it was …2 weeks ago).
